Liguria. Gulf of Poets. Location Lerici.
Near this wonderful borough of Italy, washed by a crystal clear sea, I discovered a bit of magic and poetry.
First, you need to know that Lerici has hosted Lord Byron and his spouses Shelley for a long time.
Together with La Spezia and Porto Venere, it is one of the most famous seaports in Liguria and northern Italy in general. It is no coincidence that it is the most sought-after destination of many tourists throughout the year, both Italian and foreign.
The town is located in the middle of a soft natural bay known as ”Breast of Lerici” and dominated by a promontory on which stands the imposing castle, nowadays used as a museum … If you go to visit it, you can climb up the elevator! Trust me.
In the north-west of Lerici you will find San Terenzo strong>: you can walk if you like to stroll. Of this place the best description is what made it Mantegazza, a modern intellectual who stayed at villa Magni:
“San Terenzo is a nest nestled between two blue oceans, that of the sky and that of the sea; no bathroom is more poetic, cooler, more adamant; it’s like diving into the liquid sapphire: The air is never too hot in the summer nor cold in the winter; is a sempiter of alternatives to fresh, warm and warm tepid elements that enchants, tickles and falls in love.
Palms, cedars, roses grow and thrive in your own home and I modest and fragile human plant, I prosper for a quarter of a century, hoping to prosper another quarter.
Here is what and where San Terenzo is”.
I recommend that you do not stop at Lerici and move around in the surrounding area: Tellaro for example, it is beautiful.
What remains of the history of this hamlet are the fortifications and the walls that protect the characteristic pastel houses. Of the three towers of Pisa’s naval republic, today there are two: one at the entrance of the village, the other being transformed into the bell tower of the 16th century church of St. George.
The church of the village (from the typical pink color) was built right in the center of the square of Tellaro and directly overlooking the sea.
The road gently slopes down to the sea, finishing to merge with the cliffs that embrace the wide unspoilt beaches.
According to a legend, to alert the inhabitants of the attack by the Saracens and the pirate Gallo d’Arenzano, an octopus ventured into the port of Tellaro to the bell tower, from which he gave the alarm. In reality, it seems that a certain Marco Arzellino, guarding that night, had fallen asleep and made the bells ring with the rope tied to his leg. (Poor Marco, you know what fear? And we who complain about the alarm with the ringtone of the smartphone…)
If you are a lover of nature, you must stop at Fiascherino .
Here, British writer David Herbert Lawrence and his companion Frida stayed a couple of years around 1913.
This village is well-known for its lush Mediterranean flora, and for relaxing walks through the fragrance of herbs and flowers that accompany thoughts and chats.
Fiascherino is embedded like a small diamond between Lerici and Tellaro.
If you decide to spend a day at the sea here, keep in mind that access to the beach is only possible through a staircase of 200 steps.
You should feel a bit lazy, you will always return to Lerici where you will find one of the most beautiful and organized beaches in the surroundings: wonderful for location and well equipped (if you want to know the name just send me an email).
If you want to venture into the search for some heavenly and lonely cove, away from the tourist movement, you have to walk alone: you know that if I write it here, everything will be except lonely!
About the adventure, on the headland of the Caprione, the most extreme, find one of the most fascinating trails in the region, a must for mountain bikers: the Romito trail, 14 Km and 3 very technical runs. (In fact, guess who has been happily cycling on trails like kids at Christmas?)
Keep in mind that the ideal period is between June and July, but the elevated altitude makes it a track to enjoy all year round.
What I have shown you is the best time to stop in the little glade where the Golden Butterfly’s Megaliths are located.
A testimony of a distant era in which the populations of this area had a very close relationship with the shamanism and the constellation of Cassiopeia.
Professor Calzolari believes that the megalithic structure through which sunlight passes dates back to 6,000 years before Christ. According to his hypothesis, the population of the time believed that the spirits of men formed at a constellation and that, after death, the souls returned to their place of origin in the form of a bird or a butterfly.
I invite you to play the detective for a few minutes and look for a map of the Lerici area and an image of the constellation.
You will notice that the largest reliefs in the surroundings, including Mount Branzi itself, have the same layout as the stars that make up Cassiopeia. Singular, isn’t it?
How many things did you not know about these places, and how many do not you know …
I told you something, but it’s up to you now.
Go, dip in this picture, with some shades of color and if you go, let me know what you’ve discovered.
– Alessandra Bartolomei